How to...

... get to Bario & Gem's Lodge

There are theoretically two ways into Bario, but practically only one. The road is a mud trail and depending on weather can take up to 22 hours from Miri. There is also no "service", you would have to hitchhike with a local or a logger.

The practical way of getting to Bario.
First of all, get yourself to Miri. The easiest way to do this is to use Air Asia and fly from Kuala Lumpur. Flights are cheap if you book in advance. From Miri, there are up to two flights a day on MASwings into Bario - book well in advance - although the flight is cheap (less than €20 per person each way), there are only 19 seats on the plane!
The return flight can be booked either in advanced (it is easy enough to change when you are in Bario - no fee!) or can be booked at the airport.

There are no ATMs in Bario!

... get to Gem's.

The only place to stay if you want good advice and to go trekking. Gem's Lodge is an hour out of town on foot and Jaman (Gem) will pick you up at the airport. Be aware that there is a tranfer fee of RM25 per person from the airport to the lodge. Email Jaman in advance at gems_lodge(at)yahoo(dot)com or phone him (+60) (0)13 828 0507

... find a guide in Bario.

Wait until you get to Bario. Stay in a homestay for a few days and talk to the people you meet - get recommendations. Some guides know much more than others about what is out there in the jungle and can show you mcuh more. We had Redi, who can show you what to eat and what to find if you need a jungle pharmacy...

... not get ripped off in a taxi in Vietnam.

Much easier said than done - but I can try and be more helpful than the Lonely Planet's guide to Vietnam (Dangers & Annoyances "Taxi mafia scam - try and use your common sense".

Some tips:

1. If you can get outside of the station / airport a little way. The taxis inside will be at a higher rate or will have a dodgy meter. For example, at Saigon Airport, as you come out, you'll see taxis and people everywhere (you get dumped out straight onto the street. Look across the car park and you will see a tall(ish) bulding advertsising the Parkson department store directly ahead of you. There are taxis there and it is only a five minute walk.

2. Use a reputable taxi company. Although we heard some stories to the contrary, we always found Mai Linh in Hanoi, Saigon, and Hoi An to be straightforward.

3. If you realise that you are being ripped off (30,000 Dong within the cities should the top limit - 120,000 Dong from Siagon airport to District 1), keep calm. If you can, stop the cab and pay a more than reasonable amount. Don't loose your temper and walk away.

4. Where we could, we organised longer taxi rides (eg day trips and airport transfers) through the hotels. Then you can agree a fare up front. Maybe a little more expensive, but you know what you have to pay and don't have to get involved with instructing / paying the driver.

Finally - write down the hostel / hotel name and the address. You will almost certainly not be able to pronounce the address properly and most scams centre around taking you to a hotel with the same name at a different address. All hotels have their addresses posted on the front of the building.